Category Archives: adventure travel

Classic Australian road trips you have to do

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There’s only one way to see most of Australia – and that’s by car. Australia’s highways are a roadmap to adventure; start your exploration with one of these classic road trips, which cover wide open roads from the red centre to the coastal fringe.

Stuart Highway from Alice Springs to Darwin, Northern Territory

This road, cutting through the heart of the country between Darwin and Adelaide, is one of the great Australian adventures. And the 1500km section between Darwin and Alice Springs is a track to the best of the Northern Territory: there’s the Devils Marbles, ancient rock formations carefully balanced on top of each other like a cheerleaders’ pyramid, the hot springs at Bitter Springs and Mataranka, the eerie termite mounds of Litchfield National Park, the waterfalls and gorges of Nitmiluk National Park … and that’s not even mentioning the charismatic roadhouses along the highway (the one at Wycliffe Well is famous for alien sightings). This is a road trip full of personality.

Great Ocean Road, Victoria

This insanely picturesque route is the Australian version of driving along the Amalfi Coast. The Great Ocean Road winds its way between tree-covered mountains and the endless rolling surf and, just like in Italy, there are charming seaside towns here too, from the barista boomtown of Lorne to the picture-perfect cottages of Port Fairy. The road starts just south of Torquay and runs for 278km along the coast past famous landmarks like the Twelve Apostles and Cape Otway Lightstation. You could drive the route in a few hours, but follow the example of the locals and chill out, slow down and enjoy the scenery.

Savannah Way from Cairns, Queensland to Katherine, Northern Territory

This bumpy road connects Queensland with the Northern Territory through the heart of the Gulf country with its river crossings and crocs – plus the odd interestingly named roadside stop, like Hells Gate Roadhouse. After leaving Cairns, the Savannah Way quickly passes through the lush Atherton Tablelands on its way to more wild and adventurous territory, like the true-blue gold-mining towns of Croydon and Normanton, which proudly displays a statue of the biggest croc ever caught. From Normanton, it’s a 700km stretch of unsealed road through some of the best barramundi-catching territory in the country on the way to Katherine. Just watch out for road trains!

Princes Highway from Sydney, New South Wales to Melbourne, Victoria

As you sit crunching your feet into the white sand of Hyams Beach at Jervis Bay, you’ll ask yourself why you ever drove the Hume Highway. While the Hume is the quickest route from Sydney to Melbourne, the 1000km meandering coastal road along the Princes Highway is by far the more interesting. It starts just outside of Sydney and rolls by the South Coast’s famously laid-back coastal towns, like Ulladulla, Jervis Bay, Eden and Lakes Entrance. You can also duck into the protected coastal environs of Royal National Park, Ben Boyd National Park and Croajingolong National Park. And if that’s not enough to convince you – there’s also good coffee.

Crossing the Nullarbor from Ceduna, South Australia to Norseman, Western Australia

Crossing the Nullarbor means driving 1200km between Ceduna in South Australia and Norseman in Western Australia across the Nullarbor Plain, a massive featureless expanse where you’ll also find the 90-Mile Straight, a 146km stretch of straight road. It’s enough to strike terror into the heart of any driver. Luckily there’s plenty to distract you along the route if you know where to look, from the 200km-long Bunda Cliffs, where the Nullarbor drops off into the ocean, to the Nullarbor Links, potentially the longest golf course in the world, where the holes are stretched out along the length of the highway. Then there are the roadhouses, peopled by outback characters and, in one case, a NASA museum. Yup, it’s fair to say that the Nullarbor is as interesting as you make it.

 

     

Best hot springs in Australia

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Exploring Australia is a tough business – luckily, the country is full of naturally occurring hot springs popping up in the most unexpected places to help wash the cares of the road away. So say farewell to fancy spas … and hello to the best hot springs in the country!

 

Zebedee Hot Springs, El Questro Station, Western Australia

Zebedee Hot Springs by @robynchalk – Instagram

By the time you’ve bounced your way along the rough Kimberley roads into El Questro Station, you’ll have plenty of aches and pains to wash away. So you’ll be counting your lucky stars that the property is home to the ridiculously pretty Zebedee Hot Springs, a series of small pools nestled in tiered layers down a rock-face among tropical palms. The water hovers at around 38 degrees Celsius; it’s guaranteed to relax your muscles. The hot springs are only open to the general public from 7am until 12pm in season (the afternoons are reserved for guests of the station’s luxury homestead), so get in early to beat the crowds.

 

Lightning Ridge Hot Bore Baths, Lightning Ridge, New South Wales

Lightning Ridge Hot Bore Baths by Tripadvisor reviewer Julia J

A long way in both location and style from Zebedee Hot Springs, Lightning Ridge Hot Bore Baths is a large circular pool in the middle of a dry and dusty plain with shrubby trees. But we’d expect nothing less from the idiosyncratic opal-mining town of Lightning Ridge, which is renowned for its frontier feel. The baths are just outside of town, and, with water temperature that’s around 40 degrees Celsius, are the perfect spot to relax after a long day travelling or opal mining – but unless you’re visiting the town in winter, best leave the swimming to early morning or late at night.

 

Artesian Mud Baths, Eulo, Queensland

Artesian Mud Baths by Tripadvisor reviewer CocoGELM

You’ll find hot springs with a large side of personality at Eulo in Queensland. Owner Nan has inventively placed four large claw baths in an enclosed area that’s open to the sky. The baths are filled with the naturally hot artesian water and infused with artesian mud, for the most unique beauty experience you’ll have this year. You can even book your bath at night, and sip on a glass of wine while leaning back in the tub and staring at the starry, starry night. It’s an experience you won’t soon forget.

 

Bitter Springs, Elsey National Park, Northern Territory

Bitter Springs by Tripadvisor reviewer Lesley2402

Bitter Springs, just two kilometres south of Mataranka, has long been a hot spot for its hot springs. Near the equally famous Mataranka Thermal Pool, Bitter Springs is famously beautiful, with interconnected pools of sparkling aqua overshadowed by palms and tropical grasses. The water is a balmy 34 degrees Celsius, and you can hire a noodle from the nearby camping area and float from the top pool to the bottom – don’t forget your snorkel for a glimpse of underwater life. Word to the wise: there are crocs about, so stay alert.

 

Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park, South Australia

Dalhousie Springs by Tripadvisor reviewer family_of_four_qld

On the edge of the Simpson Desert lies the dusty Witjira National Park, which hides a hot secret – around 120 mound springs full of artesian water. The most well known of the springs is Dalhousie Main Spring, a National Heritage–listed pool surrounded by palms and hardy desert trees where the water sits at around 37 degrees Celsius. The largest pool on this list, the oasis is a pretty good reward for braving the long, bumpy and dirty road into the park.

 

     

Top 5 croc-free swimming holes in the Northern Territory

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Gunlom (Waterfall Creek), Kakadu National Park, Tourism Australia

Gunlom (Waterfall Creek), Kakadu National Park, Tourism Australia

Want to cool down in a croc-free swimming hole after exploring the hot spots of the Northern Territory? We’ve picked five swimming holes across the Territory that are (normally) croc free.

Berry Springs, Berry Springs Nature Park

The natural springs at Berry Springs Nature Park couldn’t look more like a picture-perfect oasis if they had been designed by Disney. An emerald pool, fringed by jungle green is exactly what a Disney princess – or anyone, really – would want to swim in after an exhausting day exploring the Northern Territory.

Only 50km from Darwin, Berry Springs doesn’t have any crocs (although you should always read the warning signs), and has several easily accessible pools ranged along Berry Creek.

Gunlom Pool, Kakadu National Park

If crocodiles have a spiritual home in the imaginations of most Australians, it would be at the wildly beautiful Kakadu National Park. And yup, you’ll find crocodiles in most waterholes and rivers and wetlands here. But there is a pool, hidden at the top of a waterfall, that you can only find after a steep hike up. You might be tempted to think that Gunlom Pool is a mirage, but the cold water will soon shock you out of that. Relax in the water while enjoying panoramic views over the park. While crocs up this high are rare, it’s always a possibility, so be careful.

Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park

Disclaimer: there sometimes are crocs at Wangi Falls. It’s one of the designated swimming areas in Litchfield National Park, along with Buley Rock Hole, Florence Falls, Walker Creek and the Cascades. But as one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Northern Territory, this swimming spot is monitored by rangers and has a permanent croc trap just upstream, although you should always be cautious and follow the warning signs. As for the swimming hole itself? At the bottom of a charming waterhole, it’s a picturesque spot, fringed with trees clinging to the volcanic-looking rocks.

Ormiston Gorge, West MacDonnell Ranges National Park

Phhheww, we’re in the Red Centre – you don’t have to worry about crocs here. Ormiston Gorge is in West MacDonnell National Park. You’ll also find swimming holes at Ellery Creek Big Hole and Redbank Gorge (where you can float through the narrow enclosing walls) in the park. The biggest risk at this swimming hole is that you’ll be so transfixed by the red walls rising above the water (especially if you’re there at sunrise or sunset) and the fringing gums that you’ll stay in the water too long and get hypothermia, a serious concern at these chilly spots.

Leliyn (Edith Falls), Nitmiluk National Park

Nitmiluk National Park has a permanent condition of being stuck between a rock and a hard place. The national park is a series of interconnected gorges, the most famous of which is Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk is a popular canoeing destination, but it’s not too shabby for swimming either, with swimming spots being open in dry season at Leliyn (Edith Falls) and Sweetwater Pool.

With a waterfall and a large pool with easy access, you’ll definitely want to cool off here. Freshwater crocs are common in the park, but while saltwater crocs hang out here in the wet season, rangers move them on in dry. But, as with any swimming hole in the Top End, be cautious and read the warning signs before you swim.

Find out how to get to these swimming holes as quickly as possible with UBD Gregory’s South Australian and Northern Territory street directory.

 

     

We swam with whale sharks at Ningaloo Reef (and lived to tell the tale)

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Whale shark at Ningaloo Reef, Tourism Western Australia

Whale shark at Ningaloo Reef, Tourism Western Australia

One of our Explorers, Lauren, went swimming with whale sharks over Easter. And yup, she found out that they are definitely sharks. But also that they probably won’t eat you.

‘Group 2, get on the marlin board! Quickly, quickly.’

Shoving on my flippers and snorkel, I flapped my way down the stairs to the edge of the boat. In front of us, the water of Ningaloo Reef was a sparkling blue, like the deep blue of Elizabeth Taylor’s famous sapphires. Unfortunately, unlike a sapphire, the water was not smoothly cut but choppy and getting worse by the second. In the distance, the dry brown hills of Cape Range National Park lined the shore. The heads of Group 1 were bobbing around in the ocean around 50 metres from the boat, unmoored by anything except their fascination with something underneath the surface that we couldn’t see. But I was pretty sure they were all looking at what we’d all come to Ningaloo Reef to see – a whale shark.

‘Okay, go!’

The other people on the board started leaping in the ocean. I stuck out my right foot, flipper first, and stepped off the boat.

The water was cold and tingly. A slightly panicked gasp from one of my fellow group members made me look up – ‘There are jellyfish!’ she said. That explained the tingling. But as the stings seemingly weren’t deadly, I focused my attention on looking down, trying to spot movement in the water.

Our group leader gestured for us to swim away from the boat and to stay close together. There’s nothing like being smacked by multiple flippers to encourage movement, so we all kicked our way slowly through the water, swimming towards Group 1 with our heads in the water, glancing from side-to-side to see whether we could spot anything moving in the water. At that moment the water was calm, but in the distance I saw a wave in the water. Was there something emerging from the clear blue of the reef water?

There was something, something big. It was a similar colour to the surrounding ocean, but slightly darker. As we swam closer, I could see that it was a huge head, its mouth double – triple! – my width, with white spots polka-dotting over its head and all the way down its back. It was a whale shark.

I’d travelled quite a way to see this whale shark. After flying into Perth from Melbourne, my travel buddy and I had rented a campervan (if you can call a converted Toyota Tarago a campervan) and raced – within the speed limit, of course – up the coast to Exmouth. We’d almost booked a tour with a company in Coral Bay, but decided to go further north at the last minute. It was a good call. Exmouth is an enchanting town, the final outpost of this surprisingly fertile stretch of desert, and is the gateway to both Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range National Park.

We’d been lucky to get a spot on a whale shark tour in Exmouth. When we’d enquired two weeks earlier there had been only two spots left across the whole Easter week, and we’d only gotten lucky because Ningaloo Whaleshark n Dive had two boats going out.

We found ourselves on one of those boats, the Aliikai (which apparently means Queen of the Ocean in Hawaiian), the day after arriving in Exmouth. The crew all swore, hand-over-heart, that the Aliikai was the best whale shark boat on the reef and after spending the day with them, I’m a believer – especially after eating the lunch they provided (you really want to get their lunch).

But as we bobbed around in the ocean, food was the last thing on our minds. Although I’m sure some of us were worried that we might become food.

We’d been told to stay three metres from the whale shark at all times (for their safety and ours), and as the huge head moved towards us, I scrambled to get out of its way, bashing into the other members of Group 2 in my haste. We were desperate not to startle the whale shark, as our crew had warned us that any sudden movements could lead to the shark diving away from us. As it came closer, we could see the full scale of this so-called gentle giant – this one was around five metres long. As it swam past, with other fish clinging to its fins, I forgot to breathe into the scuba mask, awed at the grace and power of this animal. The whale shark is, quite frankly, the supermodel of the shark kingdom, although slightly larger in scale than a human supermodel. It doesn’t really look like more familiar images of sharks with their pointy noses and sinister rows of teeth; a whale shark’s mouth is wider and gracefully curves into a body that is bigger than any other variety of shark. Flapping my flippers with my enthusiasm than skill, I tried to keep up with the shark, but soon fell back. In my defence, its fins were much bigger than my flippers.

Sticking my head above the water, I breathed in with a gurgle, sure that it was the end of the encounter. But everyone else still had their heads in the water – I stuck mine back down to see that the whale shark had doubled back, and was swimming past us again. It was briefly silhouetted against the hull of the boat, and was almost the same size as the boat.

Jeannette, our German photographer, had told us that these whale sharks are teen males and the whale shark swinging around was reminiscent of nothing so much as a teen boy circling a group of girls on his bicycle. The whale shark was no less impressive on the second time around.

‘Everyone, out!’ We swam back towards the boat, heads still down, hoping to catch a final glimpse of the whale shark. There are strict guidelines around interactions with whale sharks to protect them and us – only ten people are allowed around the creatures at one time. Whale shark tour boats work together to make sure everyone gets adequate time with the sharks, and our time was up for now.

We swam with our first shark three more times before moving on. Apparently he was a particularly curious and friendly guy – normally whale sharks are more bashful, so our crew wanted to give some other groups time with this rare creature.

The whale shark companies have spotter planes to find these gentle giants in the water, and another one had been spotted further west. Our second whale shark was more typically bashful. Group 1 jumped in the water, but by the time we (Group 2) jumped in, Bashful had dived down to 10 metres and we could no longer see him.

Luckily, the spotter plane had seen another whale shark a short distance away, and we spent some time swimming with this one, who was a happy compromise between Curious and Bashful.

As we were relaxing on deck after our third whale shark encounter, one of the crew members came racing down the stairs. Some manta rays had been spotted further out to ocean, so we dropped everything and sped off.

When we got there, two boats were rocking around the windy patch of ocean. There were around 40 people already in the water, moving in a pattern around what must have been the manta rays.

Before we jumped into the ocean, one of our crew members gave us an overview. Manta rays are extremely jumpy and will dive away at the first hint of too many bubbles in the water. So don’t breathe OR swim too vigorously. But no worries – it was a stingray that had killed Steve Irwin. Manta rays are more closely related to sharks, so there was nothing to concern ourselves about. We were given the cue to all jump in – no groups this time. Even the skipper was going in.

Swimming over to where the majority of people were hanging out, we looked through the water. And there was one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen – two huge manta rays, doing a synchronised swimming routine through the water. These manta rays were each around 3 to 4 metres across, and were circling around, tail to face, in incredible patterns. And contrary to the warnings of our crew member, these manta rays were swimming right at us – simultaneously the most terrifying and thrilling moment of my life. You know who will come out on top in a collision between a manta ray and a human (hint: it won’t be you). It’s an experience that’s so hard to describe. You’re trying to get out of the way of these giant creatures without smashing into everyone around you, trying to remember to breathe properly, all without taking your eyes off the manta rays. Braver people than me were free diving to get underneath the creatures, holding their breath longer than seemed possible.

After around 20 minutes I was manta ray-ed out. I felt (manta) ray-diant, but it was time to get out of the water. Swimming back to the boat, I felt almost relieved. It had been incredible, but my adrenalin levels couldn’t handle any more excitement. Around a metre from the boat, I felt a presence nearby. Looking around, there wasn’t a human within 20 metres. But the ocean below me wasn’t the blue I’d come to expect – I glanced down to see the steel grey of the manta ray stretched up mere centimetres from my legs. Gurgling screaming through my mask, I watched as the manta ray looked up at me (did the cheeky devil wink?) and leisurely glided away.

At the end of the day, our crew told us we’d had one of the best days ever, and that it would have only been complete if we’d seen a tiger shark as well. Somehow I didn’t feel like we’d missed out too much.

 

 

     

Six questions with Doug King, author of the Boating Survival Guide

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Doug King, author of Boating Survival GuideIf there’s someone who knows more about boating than Doug King, author of the Boating Survival Guide, then we haven’t met them yet. We quiz Doug about his favourite boating spots for this time of year, his tips for beginners, and what you can’t leave behind when you go on a boating trip.

• How did you get into boating?

As a boy, my family holidayed at the Gippsland Lakes. I learned sailing and motor-boating with family and friends. I enjoyed the freedom, the connection with nature and the ability to take control of what you were doing. I explored, learned and enjoyed myself in one of Australia’s most beautiful waterways. My love of boats and the water grew from there.

• What are your favourite boating spots at this time of year?

While it is a bit one-eyed, I love Victoria in April, particularly the Gippsland Lakes and Port Phillip. We have cool nights and warm sunny days coupled with long periods of settled weather. North of Brisbane is also great this time of the year. The cyclone season has gone and settled weather is approaching.

• What are your three top tips for novice boaters?

1. Commit to learning more about boating and your boat. Gaining a licence is the beginning. You can get much more from your boat by gaining experience and learning how to safely extend yourself.
2. Don’t rush. Take your time and reflect when things don’t go quite right. You can learn from small errors.
3. Gain practical experience gradually. Take small steps to challenge yourself and seek advice from experienced boaters or consult reliable texts.

• What sort of information can people expect in your book?

I wrote the Boating Survival Guide with a wide range of people in mind, from the novice to the experienced boater. Information in the book provides the knowledge to extend yourself with a good base of information. The tips, checklists and case studies allow experienced boaters to confirm their skills and the novice to develop them. I have deliberately written the book in such a way that it could be a mate talking to you about various topics. I’ve tried not to be too technical! There are no boating books that cover the range of topics in the Boating Survival Guide.

• What items are always in your pack when you’re boating?

On day trips, apart from the mandatory safety equipment, a whistle, a good multi-tool, a jacket, a small waterproof torch, a waterproof mobile phone pouch, sunglasses (even in winter), a hand held marine radio, a cap and a bottle of water. For extended trips the list includes more items such as clothing and an EPIRB (Rescue Beacon).

• What places in Australia are on your must-travel list?

I’m sure I will miss out many great places but from a boating point of view my must-visit travel are – the extended Whitsundays (Mackay to Bowen), Coffin Bay to Farm Beach in South Australia, Hobart to Southport along the D’Entrecasteaux Channel in Tasmania, Pittwater and the Hawkesbury System. I love the north-west coast of Western Australia, although it is a bit remote. As well as these places, I love any large inland river system – you can lose the stresses of a busy life easily.

For more boating tips, check out Doug’s book, Boating Survival Guide.